Cristo di Sorbara (prov. Modena, Emilia Romagna)
Visiting this winery we suddenly realize: this is like being in a Riesling producing area in Germany. Where else do you find such a dedication to one single grape variety, trying to show it from several sides and preferably from its best?
Also quite similar is the continuous search of finding in each wine and each vintage the right balance between sugar and acidity (subject of Alberto Paltrinieri’s thesis).
Alberto and Barbara Paltrinieri, third generation, have their fifteen hectares of vineyards in the flatland between the rivers Secchia and Panaro. There, they concentrate on growing Sorbara, not the easiest grape in the world of Lambrusco. Sorbara actually is a grape with a handicap. It needs another variety nearby for reproduction purposes, usually Salamino. Therefore, the DOC Sorbara allows for 30% of Salamino, but only a few producers dare to produce dry Sorbara ‘in purezza‘. Pure. At Paltrinieri they do it!
Besides three different Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC wines, of which one is refermented in the bottle, there are also two Spumante wines. One is a Riserva, Charmat method, with 12 months on the lees. The other one is made with the Classic (champagne) method.
Particular wines need particular good care. So, the Paltrinieris employ Attiglio Pagli as their winemaking consultant. In creating the labels they turned to their friend, the artist Fabrizio Loschi, who also helped to dream up the names for each single wine.
It may take some more time to fall in love with Lambrusco than with Riesling, but once you have discovered the potential of the area and the dedication of ‘The Pioneering Paltrinieris’, you will bless the day you discovered the great pleasure of drinking their Sorbara.